Finding and bolting an undeveloped climbing paradise with endless virgin walls on perfect limestone.
This is a...
Finding and bolting an undeveloped climbing paradise with endless virgin walls on perfect limestone.
This is a dream many climbers may secretly nourish. But is this still possible after decades of world- wide expansion of sport climbing with new routes popping up everywhere around the globe?
Well, it is...
In Montenegro, a small country in south-eastern Europe an Austrian group of climbing and bolting enthusiasts found their own little paradise.
In 2018, with the help of the small local community they set the first bolts. With over a hundred new routes and still counting the process has just started.
This video tries to show the dedication, passion and hard work they put in the development of what might become one of Europe’s best climbing areas.
• 'Hipnoza' 8a+ | Markezina Greda
• 'Caddy Family‘ 7b+ | Wonderwall
• 'Barista' 7c+ | Bar
• 'Barometer' 8a | Bar
• Boulder: 'Olive Tree' 7B | Bar
• Boulder: 'Ma Belle' 8a | Bar
• 'Barbar Plastik' 8b | Bar
• 'Bubar' 7c+ | Bar
• 'Barcaffe' 8a+ | Bar
• 'Sparkie' 8a | Cievna Canyon
• 'Throw yourself over the buildings' 7b+ | Cievna Canyon
• 'Butterfliegeneffekt' 7c | Wonderwall
• 'Welcome to Wonderwall' 8a+ | Wonderwall
• Egal - Dunkelbunt & Alix
• Reset (feat. Sophie Lindinger) - MOTSA
• Marienkäfer - La Brass Banda
• The Stojka Empire (feat. Harry Stojka) - Dunkelbunt
• From East - Fourward
• Ritual Angel - MOTSA
• Hope dies last - MOTSA
Join Jakob Schubert in his process of climbing the 9b+ route ‘Perfecto Mundo’ in the Spanish climbing mecca of...
Join Jakob Schubert in his process of climbing the 9b+ route ‘Perfecto Mundo’ in the Spanish climbing mecca of Margalef.
After a very successful competition season and a successful qualification for the 2020 Olympic games, Jakob decided to skip the last few World Cups to give his all on the route. After a promising start the process turns into a mental battle…
Neus Colom es una escaladora nativa de Mallorca, la isla sin fin para escalar. Nos encanta su dulce personalidad y...
Neus Colom es una escaladora nativa de Mallorca, la isla sin fin para escalar. Nos encanta su dulce personalidad y nos sorprende como puede lograr escalar tan fuerte. Después de haberse lesionado en los últimos movimientos de la vía y tras 6 meses de recuperación, Neus logra completar su escalada deportiva de mayor dificultad con la vía PARANOID 8b+ (5.14). Nos encanta su carísma, esa potencia y motivación que nos ha inspirado un montón! Venga vamos por más Neus!
Neus Colom is a local climber from the never ending island of rock, Mallorca. Her sweet personality and great charisma make you'd never believe how strong she climbs. PARANOID is an 18-meter 8b+ (5.14) overhang route, that she was almost sending when she injured her forearm tendons in the final crux. After 6 months of recovery, lots of patience and seeing the positive side of the timeout she finally returns to her project and closes the chapter: sending her first 8b+! Congratulations Neus, you inspire us to push forward!
Slovenia athlete, world cup champion Jernej Kruder spent a month to work on his project in Vrulja, Croatia. Though...
Slovenia athlete, world cup champion Jernej Kruder spent a month to work on his project in Vrulja, Croatia. Though facing a month of bad weather which made the route so wet, Jernej did not accomplish the project. He thinks it is never too late for him to finish this route.
In 2017, BMC ambassador and top sport climber Steve McClure finally climbed his seven-year mega-project at Malham,...
In 2017, BMC ambassador and top sport climber Steve McClure finally climbed his seven-year mega-project at Malham, Rainman, to give the UK its first-ever 9b.
The route, at Malham Cove in Yorkshire, climbs up the classic Raindogs (8a) then climbs the bulge into Rainshadow (9a). After the crux of Rainshadow, which moves left onto better holds, Rainman blasts pretty much straight up to eventually join Bat Route. It does link existing routes but there’s a bunch of new climbing.
On a cold, misty morning in late October 2017, after 11 previous attempts, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds broke the...
On a cold, misty morning in late October 2017, after 11 previous attempts, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds broke the standing speed record on The Nose (formerly held by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine) with an unbelievable new time of 2 hours, 19 minutes, and 44 seconds. Watching this as it happened was one of the more incredible spectacles I've ever witnessed; an amazing display of superhuman mastery unlike anything I've seen before...
Daniel Woods has been a top bouldering and competition athletes for well over a decade. In the last few years, he...
Daniel Woods has been a top bouldering and competition athletes for well over a decade. In the last few years, he has gradually begun to shift his focus to the challenges of sport climbing. Watch as Woods works through the classic test pieces in Catalonia to achieve his goal of climbing 9b (5.15b).
Die superlangen Powerrouten im Sektor "Pueblo" erfreuen sich seit einiger Zeit der Aufmerksamkeit der kletternden...
Die superlangen Powerrouten im Sektor "Pueblo" erfreuen sich seit einiger Zeit der Aufmerksamkeit der kletternden Weltklasse. Bereits 2016 gelingt Stefano Ghisolfi dort die Erstbegehung einer der schwierigsten Kreationen am Gardasee.
The Traumpfeiler keeps what its name promises: it is a true pillar of dreams for climbers. Youth Boulder Champion...
The Traumpfeiler keeps what its name promises: it is a true pillar of dreams for climbers. Youth Boulder Champion Filip Schenk climbs the legendary multipitch route with his trainer and sportclimbing pioneer Stefan Stuflesser.
Climbing To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock is like learning over 100 choreographed moves of a difficult...
Climbing To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock is like learning over 100 choreographed moves of a difficult dance. Nina Caprez shares her story of working her way up all 40 meters of perfectly smooth, vertical wall.
Udo Neumann is the head coach of the DAV (German Alpine Clup) bouldering team. This is his personal report of the last two Boulder World Cups of the 2014 season in Haiyang, China and Laval, France.
It should be noted that the World Cup in Haiyang was a very weak one, taking place in a ghost town without any real spectators. As a result (?), route setting was weak too, but these issues are the subject of another analysis in the future, let’s talk about the bouldering instead for now!
Before these two world cups, Jan Hojer and Dmitry Sharafutdinov were just a view points apart, as were Shauna Coxsey and Akiyo Noguchi.
Jan and Dmitri were looking forward to a friendly death match when Dmitri ran into some personal problems that clearly were not helping his bouldering. For the first time in ages he failed to qualify for the finals.
Especially at the end of the season Shauna and Akiyo climbed clearly better than the other girls through all the rounds.
Haiyang was won by Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer.
The nation that hosts a boulder world cup is allowed to nominate 12 men and 12 women. If the hosting country is a strong climbing nation, like Austria or France, even the 12th best guy most likely is a very strong climber in his own right. There are so many strong boulderers in the world nowadays that you can easily can miss semis even if you are Dmitri Sharafutdinov.
One after another was climbing the problems that Dmitri had failed on this day and at the end MICKAEL MAWEM was the one kicking Dmitri out of the competition.
That meant that Jan had one the Boulder World Cup 2014. For the boys, the only question remaining was if Gui-Gui would end up second in the world cup - but he needed a victory to do so!
That didn’t happen since Rustam Gelmanov secured the victory in Laval.
The ladies final could not have been more gripping. Shauna Coxsey had a black out on the first problem and needed too many tries for the second bloc. After 2 problems, the finals looked like a battle between Akiyo, Juliane Wurm and Miho Nonoka. But than Akiyo, and Juliane failed to climb problem #3 and everything seemed possible again. At the end though, it was Akiyo, Juliane and Miho, what meant that Akiyo had secured her third overall Boulder World cup title!
check out also our best shots of the Boulder World Cup 2014 here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/udini/sets/72157644528490685/
Climb new heights here: http://win.gs/1aXUVRM
Stefan Glowacz and Chris Sharma climb Majlis al Jinn, the...
Climb new heights here: http://win.gs/1aXUVRM
Stefan Glowacz and Chris Sharma climb Majlis al Jinn, the second-largest cavern in the world. Staring down into a 160 meter deep hole in the ground in the country of Oman, Stefan Glowacz and Chris Sharma descend beneath the earth's surface to begin a climb like no other. The two legends challenge the world's largest unclimbed roof and set a new milestone in climbing.
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Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra spent two years working together to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c / 9b+), the world's...
Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra spent two years working together to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c / 9b+), the world's hardest climb. This film tells the story of their unique collaboration and shows Adam's historic first ascent and Chris' second ascent. Presented by prAna, Black Diamond, Sterling Rope, Evolv, Petzl, and Walltopia. With music by Build Buildings, Abel Okugawa, Okai, Animals on Wheels, Pascal Savy, and The Green Kingdom. For the full backstory on Chris, Adam, and the route, check out the original film, "La Dura Dura" available on the REEL ROCK 7 DVD and Download here: http://www.bigupproductions.com/films/reel-rock-7/
Adam Ondra, the best sportsclimber in the word, are visiting Flatanger in Norway. He has created a very hard route,...
Adam Ondra, the best sportsclimber in the word, are visiting Flatanger in Norway. He has created a very hard route, proberly a 9b or 9b+. In this video he's trying to climb the first meters of the 55 meter route. Hanshelleren, the famous Flatanger Cave, has been known as the most spectacular climping destination in Europe, especialy in the sommer as the climat is perfect and the granit in the cave is hard and dry. Adam Ondra, verdens beste sportsklatrer, besøker Flatanger i Norge. Han har boltet en svært hard rute, trolig en 9b eller 9b+. I denne videoen prøver han å klatre de første metrene av den 55 meter lange ruta. Hanshelleren, den kjente hula i Flatanger, er blitt kjent som det mest spektakulære klatremålet i Europa, spesielt på somers tid hvor klimaet er perfekt og granitten i hula er hard og tørr.
Ines Papert ist Anfang Januar 2012 zu einem Sportkulturellen Projekt nach Harbin, der Hauptstadt der Provinz...
Ines Papert ist Anfang Januar 2012 zu einem Sportkulturellen Projekt nach Harbin, der Hauptstadt der Provinz Heilongjiang (Amur-Provinz), Mandschurei, Volksrepublik China zum "Harbin Ice & Snow-Festival" gereist. Dieses Video zeigt atemberaubende Bilder von dem Eiskletter-Projekt an den Eisskulpturen.
16-year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo has climbed yet another 5.15 with his repeat of La Rambla original in Siurana,...
16-year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo has climbed yet another 5.15 with his repeat of La Rambla original in Siurana, Spain. The route was first climbed before Oddo was even born by Alex Huber to a stopping point 3/4 up the wall, and it was subsequently extended by Ramón Julián Puigblanque. The accepted grade for this route these days seems to be 5.15a, but Rock and Ice has a good recap of this history of the route including Huber's thoughts on how the grade of this route and many others has been inflated over the years:
"It's a fact that La Rambla increased in grade from 8c+ (5.14c) to 9a+ (5.15a). Often people believe this is due to the route extension, but in reality the difficulties do not change substantially with this extension."
On October 15th 2011, Adidas team athlete, Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 9a...
On October 15th 2011, Adidas team athlete, Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 9a (5.14d) with her historic ascent of "Pure Imagination" in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann (Three Strings Media) were there to capture her efforts and tell her story.
Filmed and Edited by: 3SM
Music by: Emancipator (emancipatormusic.com)
Perfect bouldering conditions, an impressively high wall and very interesting route setting - Vail felt like a...
Perfect bouldering conditions, an impressively high wall and very interesting route setting - Vail felt like a Highlight of the 2010 Bouldering World Cup so far! To keep things interesting, Kilian Fischhuber had a painful but (hopefully) harmless accident just before the comp. It would have been interesting to compare a 100% fit Kilian to the impressive Daniel Woods on that wall. Daniel was the only one to complete problem #2 in the finals and was the undisputed winner. For the future, lets all hope for a Ondra-Woods-Fischhuber-Hori conference with Jernej Kruder (wow, what a performance !!!) and any of the strong British and French boys thrown in for comparision!
Three of last years strongest are not showing their true potential yet, if Jonas Baumann, Gabri Moroni and Rustam Gelmanov will wake up the Boulder WC picks up even more steam.
When in Vienna everybody thought the Asian girls' patience and precission was the only key to success, in Vail things were quite different. Problems were burly and you had to move fast. Anna Stöhr is in a class of her own in that style, using momentum like none of the other girls. She didn't win the comp because of a slip on a slab and marks the other end of the spectrum from the Asian style. Right in the middle style wise sits female winner Chloé Graftiaux who climbs equally well in all styles and has the least weaknesses. Fingers crossed for up-to-the task route setting when the Johnson-Stöhr-Graftiaux-Wurm-Kim-Noguchi-Puccio-Oda etc. etc. conference takes place since the female events seem to be more determined by the quality of the route setting! Whoever route setter wants to be voted route setter of the season will be judged by his Girls problems!
Die Huberbuam sind ein Begriff. Alexander und Thomas Huber zählen zu den weltbesten Extrem- und Alpinkletterern...
Die Huberbuam sind ein Begriff. Alexander und Thomas Huber zählen zu den weltbesten Extrem- und Alpinkletterern unserer Zeit. Oscar®-Preisträger Pepe Danquart ist mit den beiden Brüdern auf Tour ins Yosemite Valley und nach Patagonien gegangen. AM LIMIT ist das Abenteuer zweier Brüder, die seit frühester Kindheit in den Bergen zu Hause sind und die Grenzerfahrung suchen. Alexander und Thomas Huber, zwei Menschen, die bis ans Äußerste gehen, getrieben vom unbändigen Willen, ihre Grenzen und Ängste zu überwinden und die damit verbundenen Herausforderungen anzunehmen. Zwei Brüder auf der Suche nach dem eigenen Limit.