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Hardest Route in Italy | Wonderland 9b/9b+ | Adam Ondra

Video von Redaktion in Klettervideos hinzugefügt 89 Aufrufe 2nd Jul, 2022 Video-Dauer: 00:21:07
Even though the crag is called Terra Promessa (Promised Land), I hadn't thought that it would once host Arco's and Italy's hardest route ⚡. The hard routes around 8b and 8c were developed mainly by Reini Scherer in the late 90s and since the development of this crag has mostly stopped. There were still quite a few spots where the rock was untouched, but the question was if it would go. Alfredo Webber, once again, saw this wonderful line, put the effort, and placed the bolts, but the question mark was about the very beginning. I found a detour slightly to the left using a few very slopy pinches and tiny crimps, replaced 3 bolts, and it was obvious that line was possible!

We worked on the route for a few days in the autumn with @Stefano Ghisolfi. Eventually, I felt I was quite close to sending, but despite this winter being extremely dry, this crag is not exactly winter crag and the crucial tufa kept seeping. The route dried up in March and after a few days of work, I did the first free no-fall ascent through "Wonderland", some of my proudest first ascents!
Regarding the grade, I know it is considerably harder than most of the 9b's, but if it really breaks into the 9b+ barrier, it is really difficult to know...

Timecodes:

00:00 - Intro
01:00 - Adam Ondra talks about the project on Terra Promesa (Masone, Arco)
02:13 - Working out a climbing route (kneebar, crux move…)
03:06 - First light tries
03:56 - Broken hold after the crux
04:23 - The first real good try
06:28 - The end of the first day on Terra Promesa
06:54 - The second day? Today is not the day!
07:21 - Alfredo Weber talks about Terra Promesa crag
09:18 - The third day - the first try: 2 mistakes
11:28 - Pushing just too much
12:20 - The fourth day
13:35 - The beginning part of the Wonderland 9b/9b+
14:19 - The kneebar
15:25 - The crux
18:29 - The anchor of route Wonderland 9b/9b+
18:50 - Adam talks about the ascent with Alfredo, Pietro Dalpra and his wife Iva
20:06 - Why the grade 9b/9b+?
20:30 - Funny outro

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Thumbnail picture by: Petr Chodura

Special thanks to
Alfredo Webber
Pietro dal Pra
Mauro Mabboni

Story by
Adam Ondra

Directed & edited by
Laco Korbel

Camera
Pavel Klement
Laco Korbel
Jan Vogl
Stefano Ghisolfi

Production
Kateřina Kuřátková
Jan Verner
Jakub Pína

Subtitles by
Jarka Marčeková

© 2022 AO Production s.r.o.

Songlist
Fugu Vibes - Rusty Telescope
Sirus Music - Cave Crystals
DeKibo - Spirit of Wars
Life is an epic film - Get your way

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